Proper ski care is a love language for nordies and when it's time for hibernation - it can pay to give them a little extra attention. Below is our five-step process to help you put away your precious-es without too much fuss. These tips aren't meant to counter anything you may like - or prefer to do - with your waxing routine. It is only insight into what we've learned over the years that works for us, our space, and gear management philosophies.
With that, let's get to it.
5-Step Storage Wax: ONE
Music.
Choose wisely. Find the perfect Spotify list, mixed tape or Sirius station to set the mood for your waxing session. Will it take you longer to land on the right vibe than the cleaning? Prolly. But friends, this step is so important. And the right combination of tunes and attitude can make this waxing session enjoyable - or a total drag. Not unlike a tough lifting, riding or running day. So much of how we think about tasks is dependent on the mood we bring to the moment.
In the NORDJÖRK headquarters (aka our garage) the only music we can agree on are 90's tunes - and surprisingly the SoulCycle station on Sirius - it's got interesting song choices from a deeper variety of hosts who like to blend old school hip hop, rock and current hits. It keeps the beat pumping without us feeling too old?
5-Step Storage Wax: TWO
Clean.
Most of us have both skate and classic skis. Due to the kick-zone, we need to handle them a little differently.
> CLASSIC: Using a kick wax remover (citrus-based SWIX® cleaner works great) and rag, paper towel or Fiberline, rub gently until all kick wax is removed. There are different ways to remove kick wax and klister gummy build-up. Practice your preferred method. Jenn likes the "warm iron and paper towel" where you place a paper towel on the kick wax zone, move the iron over the towel until you see the kick wax melting, and then simply wipe. It's easy and chemical-free.
> SKATE & CLASSIC: Cleaning the glide wax is far easier and faster. Grab another rag, your favorite base cleaner (we use the TOKO® HC3) and wipe from tip to tail, removing dirt in the base. Let the skis sit for at least 10 minutes to allow the cleaner to penetrate, grip, and lift the dirt particles.
5-Step Storage Wax: THREE
Brush.
After the ten-minute rest time, grab your favorite horse hair, steel, nylon or roto-brush and work tip to tail along the base in 2-4 long, steady, even-pressure passes. This helps to lift the debris and dirt so it can easily be wiped clean. As such, after those few passes, wipe clean. We use a microfiber towel. These steps are important to help prepare the bases to accept our final wax of the season. Skipping this process MAY trap some dirt in the base of the ski, UNDER the storage wax.
5-Step Storage Wax: FOUR
Wax.
Using your preferred storage wax and melting method - apply a layer of glide wax to ALL bases, but do NOT scrape. Yes, this INCLUDES the kick zone of your classic skis. The intent with storage wax applications is to keep the bases from being exposed to too much oxygen.
"Polyethylene—what your bases are made of—is susceptible to oxidation over long periods of oxygen exposure. And so while one summer without storage wax isn’t going to ruin your skis, it will start a slow process of base degradation. If you were to look closely at a pair of improperly stored skis, you would see what look like tiny hairs as the polyethylene starts to break down or “peel,” and the telltale chalky appearance of dried-out bases. If this process is too far along, your skis will need a fresh base grind before ever fully accepting wax again."
-as explained by the wax techs on Jans blog
Up here in the Elk Mountain of Colorado - it's high and dry - so we store our skis with BLUE glide wax. Why? Because the first ski of the season is usually cold with low humidity and a fairly abrasive snow structure. This means when flakes start flying all we have to do is a quick scrape, brush and we're ready.
5-Step Storage Wax: FIVE
Store.
Reattach ski ties - maybe even a few of our snarky or cheery ties - and place inside travel bags (if you have them) in a cool, dry, dark spot. We put our skis into a crawl space where they are safe and away from other garage clutter, laying flat and not at risk of damage, or being placed under tension during their 6+ month hibernation. Under beds is a great place, too!
Why does it matter? Super hot and dry conditions may damage plastic found on your bindings or topsheet/deco panel, while dampness can pose issues with metal edges on touring skis or any older bindings that have metal components. Because of this, basements, attics, and garages can be tricky depending on your location and environment. But, let's face it friends - most of us know that skis can withstand a lot and still give us the glide we want in winter - choose a place that feels right for your gear and goals.
the closer Cry?
The end of the cross-country skiing season is always bittersweet. But, while you've been scraping and waxing, it's the perfect time to reflect on the season and put some of those memories into the winter bank. So, swap set track for singletrack, grab those roller skis, lace up the sneaks, and get lost in your summertime activities.
TWO THINGS.
1️⃣ There is an INCREDIBLE wealth of information on the interwebs about waxing - storage and otherwise. Please consider reading up on blogs from ski manufacturers, wax companies, local nordie shop or IG tuners, teams, and racers to find the right combination of steps and tools that will work for you and your wax area.
2️⃣ At a minimum - proper gear storage for the summer comes down to cleaning and waxing. HOW you do this is, is not for us to judge. There are lots of ways to do it "right" but NOT doing a basic clean or wax is unideal.
Takk
Jenn + Kevin